Finally, we’ve encountered other #overlanders with #destinationushuaia and they brought food. I brought #mezcal
Dispatch From The Field
The Guanajuato Mummies: A Photo Essay
One of the things about this trip that has bothered me is that we just don’t seem to do anything. If you saw Will’s latest post and the map that accompanied it it looks like we’re just driving back and forth aimlessly and in a way we were. It was hard but Will had work obligations that kept up restricted to the north central areas and western coast.
While we definitely saw and experienced some incredible things I started to feel lost. I felt like we were just driving this road for the sake of driving it and neglecting the fact that there are so many stupefying things about Mexico that we were missing.
Of course, we can’t see it all, but we did resolve to do a little more planning and a lot more sight seeing. And it turns out that Guanajuato is the perfect place to do that. So what did we choose as our first major sightseeing tour?
The Guanajuato mummies of course.
I love creepy shit. I love macabre history and if there’s evidence of it I’ll pay the entrance fee, no questions asked. But the Guanajuato mummies takes macabre to a whole new level. I’ve seen mummies before; Peru and Egypt are rife with mummies. Even that little mummy found in Peru that many thought to be of alien origin piqued my interest (yeah, I like aliens and haunted stuff too) even though I’ve seen little in the way of credible information to indicate that it was an alien.
But back to the Guanajuato mummies. This case is so fascinating and so weird that I’m surprised everyone in the world doesn’t know about. Hell, even Werner Herzog used some footage from the museum for his film “Nosferatu the Vampyre” and that was back in the1970’s. But the interesting fact about these mummies is that they weren’t intended to be mummies at all. They just died.
Of cholera.
By most accounts the cholera outbreak occurred in Guanajuato in the early 1830’s. The dead were buried and no one thought much of it until 1870 when the municipality decided to enact a burial tax, meaning that if you wanted the body of your loved one to stay in the ground you had to pay for it. Obviously, not everyone had that kind of money laying around so the disinterment began.
The workers who were tasked with this grisly job began to notice that many of the bodies were in surprisingly good condition and these specimens were placed in a nearby warehouse. Some scientists believe that the altitude and relatively dry climate of Guanajuato caused the mummification and some say that the bodies were at least partially embalmed. Regardless, many of the Guanajuato mummies still have hair on their heads, I spied a beard, their clothing is relatively intact, and the honor of the world’s smallest mummy goes to the mummified fetus of a pregnant woman who fell to the cholera outbreak.
By the 1900’s the workers began charging people a few pesos to see the bodies and then the museum was officially opened in 1969. If you’re ever in Guanajuato and don’t mind strolling through a building full of dead people, I highly recommend it.
These are some of my favorite photos from our visit.
Scroll down if you dare.
You’ve made it this far! Congratulations! Now head to Mexico and see the Guanajuato mummies for yourself.
Dispatch From The Field
¡Tequila! A Visit to Mexico’s Booze Hotspot
Sometimes I’m astounded at the difference between tequila in the United States and in Mexico. Tequila in the United States is most often found lost inside a ghastly, bottled sweet and sour mix, poured over ice (or, gasp, blended) and thrown unceremoniously into a glass best described by Ed Norton’s character in “Fight Club”. There may also be a sad crust of table salt on the rim. Sometimes people even upend a bottle of Corona into these concoctions and I have no idea why.
Or, for those who want to go a different route, they order a shot, go through the inane salt and lime ritual, then chug it down with that face. You know that face. Tequila face. The opposite of O face.
Then we have to consider the brands of tequila consumed in these manners. Most people just order a margarita or a shot without specifying the brand and that’s how you end up drinking Sauza or Jose Cuervo.
Or, in other words, swill.
And that’s what we found in the pueblo magico of Tequila, Mexico.
One of Will’s bucket list items on the Mexico portion of our trip was to take a ride on the tequila train. Yes, there is such a thing as the tequila train. It runs from Guadalajara through the agave fields to Tequila and you get all kinds of samples along the way to ensure you’re good and tossed when you get to Tequila for the distillery tours.
Where you get more samples. It’s like a frat house train for people who actually know a thing or two about tequila.
Unfortunately the tequila train is currently under renovation so they’re using busses in the meantime. Will was not thrilled at this idea so we decided to just drive to Tequila and take the tours on our own.
When I said that Sauza and Cuervo was what we got I meant it. These two tequila giants dominate this town and the Sauza finca is perched on a little hill, the mansion clearly visible although the family now lives in San Francisco.
Kind of like the Escobars of tequila.
The town square of Tequila is not unique; I’ve seen much prettier squares in Mexico but this was the first time I’ve seen barrel shaped busses cruising through the narrow streets and the guides who really, really want you to get on them. Unfortunately, our bus wasn’t barrel shaped but we were hustled on nonetheless and headed to the distillery.
The smell can be detected throughout the town but when you get to the distillery it really hits you. It’s not unpleasant but it’s raw and sweet, almost like the smell of a jar of jelly that’s started to ferment. The others on our tour, who happened to be a ballet troupe from Serbia of all places, covered their noses and made the tequila face throughout the whole tour.
So basically we got to see the agave pinas, the vats of fermenting agave juice, and taste the finished product, a joven which is as raw as it gets. I prefer a reposado but hey, somebody hands you a little plastic cup of tequila and you drink it, right?
The tour was interesting and there are several shops in and around the town that represent some of the smaller distilleries and you can stop in for a taste whenever you please. However, for me, the highlight of Tequila was not tequila, it was another product that Mexico is wildly famous for.
Cholula.
While the famous hot sauce itself is manufactured south of Tequila in the town of Chapala it’s owned by the Cuervo conglomerate and they have a restaurant in Tequila. Everything on the menu is made with Cholula and, you guessed it, deciding what to eat was damn near impossible.
But I ended up with a fried cheese molcajete, doused in a sauce brimming with onions, peppers, and so robustly Cholula that it felt like I was drinking it straight from the bottle. The cheese was so perfectly gooey that I had to twine it around my fork like pasta before I could get it onto the tortilla.
And then I added more Cholula.
When the tequila fails you there’s always delicious food to save the day.
So is a visit to Tequila worth it? Yes and no. The agave fields are stunning. Some argue that the lavender fields in Provence are the most beautiful sight on Earth but I beg to differ. If you’ve never seen a mature agave field bright with that indescribable shade of blue then you and I have some talking to do.
Otherwise, unless you’re a huge fan the Sauza, Cuervo, and Cholula products I’d say skip it. Just head for your local bar, order something decent like a Cazadores Reposado, a Don Julio or even the legendary Casa de Dragones and sip it like the gorgeous creation it is.
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Dispatch From The Field
Dispatch From The Field
We Pressed the “OK” Button
This is a message sent by our SPOT 3 tracker
Here we are and all is well!
What are all these messages about? Click here to read all about it
Dispatch From The Field
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